Steve Dozier's Tale of the Legendary Climbs of the Giro with Cycle Italia in 2003
Benvenuto a Cycle Italia
Mention Italy especially northern to most any cyclist and you would prompt images of endless climbs in glacial lined valleys, epic battles of the Giro in those same valleys like some bizarre Italian opera. Well, unlike most things that don’t live up to their imagined hype northern Italy not only lives up to but surpasses at least in my case any mental image of the grandeur that is northern Italy. As with most, I dreamed of riding in cycling Mecca, reading articles much like this one, and watching the Giro d’Italia on videos and later on OLN. Finally, the time came to stop dreaming and take a trip to see, and ride, first hand the legendary climbs of the Giro. First some background, after the required research I called up Larry and Heather at Cycle Italia and booked one of their excellent tours appropriately named the Legendary Climbs of the Giro.
I then attempted to prepare myself for the trip by learning a little, actually very little Italian, honing my palate to appreciate the fine wines and foods and obviously riding up and down lots of mountains which was made easier by my proximity to the Santa Monica mountains in Southern California. Upon arrival in Milan and after an hours drive southeast to our base hotel in Terruggia, I did a couple of warm up rides to shake off the effects of jet lag and explore the Monferrato region while waiting for the other guests to arrive. I wisely opted to arrive two days early to do just that. While there were no epic climbs in this area we still managed to climb 6000 ft in 110km (67mi) just lots of short steep hills with picturesque villages atop them. Some warm up ride! Soon, our entire group had assembled and after several sumptuous meals and a brief review of the week ahead we were off to the mountains.
Our first day, I’ll call it the prologue, was a short one due to the morning drive to Mezzocorona, the starting point for our Giro. After lunch we rode north along the Strada del Vino and finished off the day with a short but steep climb to our Hotel.
Day two started with a fast descent down the same steep road we ascended yesterday followed by a short warm up to Caldero before scaling the Passo Mendola and Passo Palade, then a long descent into the Val Venosta to finish off a scenic and strenuous day with 6000 ft of climbing. We are reminded that just as the members of the peleton pace themselves during the three-week long Giro we should also pace ourselves, as there are a number of hard days ahead of us.
Day three. Yesterday was just a warm-up for today’s epic climb to Passo Stelvio the “Cima Coppi” or the highest point of our tour. With 5500 ft of climbing in an unrelenting 24 km with 48 switchbacks at an average grade of 7.5% the alpine road surrounded by scenic meadows, forest, and glacier covered peaks was breathtaking to say the least. After 2 ½ hours of climbing a Bratwurst sandwich, cold drink and unforgettable view from the summit were my reward. After soaking up the view and enjoying the carnival like atmosphere with my fellow cyclists it was time to descend the 4500 ft of switchbacks and avalanche tunnels down to Bormio. Catching me in the next to last tunnel were several members of the Quick-Step Team, including one with world champion stripes on his jersey, Johan Museeuw. What a thrill it was to ride down this stretch of mountain road surrounded by members of the pro peleton. Needless to say I didn’t do anything stupid, least I “take out” the world champion. We parted ways on the outskirts of Bormio as I headed to the hotel to relive the day with the other members of our group.
Day four started out damp under gray skies. During breakfast our group decided to shuttle over, instead of riding up, today’s first climb, the Piccolo Mortirolo. The threatening weather was the official reason but tired legs might have been a contributing factor. After unloading at the top we descended a steep, mostly dry, very narrow back road only to have rain greet us on the outskirts of Ponte de Legno. We took shelter in a local restaurant and ate lunch while waiting for the sky to clear, which it did just as we were finishing. What timing, especially since our next climb was up the famous Passo Gavia. 16 km long with an average grade of over 8% with several pitches over 14%, the Passo Gavia is only 400 ft lower than the Stelvio. The Gavia is a very narrow twisting “goat path” with constant grade changes that are constantly taxing my tired legs. With the still damp and threatening weather, I can only imaging being up here during a snow storm as Andy Hampstein was in 1988, when he finished the day’s epic stage in the maglia rosa. At the summit we regroup and head down yet another narrow, steep, twisting road taking us to the main road back to Bormio. Shortly after the last of our group arrives at the hotel, the skies open-up and we are treated to an afternoon thundershower.
Day five. Today starts out with sunshine, blue skies and sore legs. After breakfast we take the van to our drop off point near Mazzo Valtellina about 5 km from the base of the much-feared Mortirolo. “About 5 km”, because I missed a turn and added another 8 km asking for directions in my broken English-Italian and backtracking in search of the route, the maps and directions were great, the fault was in my implementation. Soon I was on the “Murderolo”, and murder it was, with the grade starting at 12% for the first 4 km then, just when you thought it couldn’t get any harder, the grade increases to 14% for the next 4 km with short pitches at 16, 18 and 20%! After 8 km the grade levels off to around 9% for 2 km and then the last 2 km at 7 to 8%. Whew! It took me 1:30 to ride 12 km (8 mi) the Giro record for this climb is 45 minutes and this is after several climbs during a 160 km stage. After a well-deserved rest and group photo at the summit we continued down a long winding ridge to Aprica, and after lunch we road down the busy highway to Tresenda. This stretch, a steep, fast, curving descent with many cars, buses and motorcycles allowed the bravest of our group to descend with and pass those cars, buses and even the motorcycles. We regrouped at the bottom of the grade, loaded the bikes and shuttled to the hotel.
Day six. Much like the last day of the Giro, day six was a easy flat roll down to lake Como, a quick lunch before boarding the ferry to Bellagio then a 4 km climb to the Madonna del Ghisallo shrine of the patron saint of cycling. This is a must see for any cyclist interested in the history of cycling. After our visit to the shrine it was time to load the van and head back to our base hotel in Terruggia, pack up our bikes, and prepare for our flights out the next morning. After another fantastic multi-course meal we all said our goodbyes and toasted each other on the completion of The Legendary Climbs of the Giro.
About the Author;
Steve Dozier is co-owner of Sundance Cycles in Agoura Hills, CA and is into anything with two wheels. Steve’s 20 years of experience in the motorcycle business as a technician, manager, racer and riding instructor have served him well since he made the transition to the bicycle industry. An avid road and off-road cyclist Steve has done every thing from mountain bike racing to riding the Markleeville Death Ride. If you’re in his neighborhood, stop in and say Hi, I’m sure he’ll have a story or two to tell.
- CycleItalia
- Box 1386
- Sioux City, IA 51102
- larry@cycleitalia.com
- 712-258-1775 voice
- 712-258-1776 fax
- 877 ITALBIKE toll-free
